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11 January, 2018 00:00 00 AM
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Winter Delicacies

Sheikh Iraj
Winter Delicacies

During winter in Bangladesh, we get to taste some delicious food items, like pitha, fresh date or sugarcane juice, molasses or jaggery, mustard oil and duck meat, along with a variety of fresh vegetables and fruit.  As the days start to get cooler, we can see a number of makeshift food stalls or carts set up on pavements and street corners of the capital. They sell all kinds of winter delicacies, like pithas, soups, fried prawn heads, parathas, meat curries, and more. The roadside shops are quite popular among city residents, particularly the young.  

Different types of traditional pithas (rice pies) are made and eaten throughout the year. But winter is the best time for enjoying pithas as they are then made with freshly ground rice and fresh molasses. Some of the popular pithas are chitoi (chital), malpoa, milk-chitoi, bhapa pitha, patishapta, mera pitha, ful pitha, teler pitha, bora pitha, puli pitha, chhit pita, milk-puli, khir-puli, and many more. In rural areas, one can find pithas of different designs and flavours. Some have fancy names like nakshi pitha, hijal-pata, kajol-lata, shajni-bahar, Padma-dighi, shagor-dighi, etc. For those of us who live in the city, we do not always get the chance to taste such exotic pithas.

Rahat Hossain, a student of Dhaka University, was eating bhapa pitha (steamed pie with molasses and coconut filling) on the campus recently. He told this reporter: “My friends and I come here every day after our classes to eat some pithas. I am from Jessore and my family lives there. The pithas we get here are not as delicious as the pithas we get back home. There, I can get any type of pitha made at home.”

Lokman Hossain, a street vendor who sells pithas near the National Museum at Shahbagh, said: “During winter, pithas are a popular snack as many ingredients needed to make them, like jaggery, mustard oil and fresh rice flour, are easily available then. I have been making pithas for more than 10 years. I sell different types of pithas as over the years, people’s tastes have changed a bit. Very early in the morning, students from all over Dhaka gather in front of the Public Library here. They wait in line to enter the library. Many of them come without having breakfast. So, a lot of them buy chitoi pitha with an egg on it. It costs only Taka 15, and I believe it is much healthier than fast food. I only sell pitha during winter, at other times I sell other types of street foods.”

Different organisations also arrange pitha festivals during winter at neighbourhood parks or on the premises of cultural centres like Bangla Academy or Shishu Academy. “We organised Poush Mela (winter fair) at Bangla Academy from December 22 to 24. We have been arranging such events for the past 19 years. When we first started, we were only able to set up 10 stalls. At the latest fair, there were 50 stalls, which were named after different districts, like Comilla Pitha House. We are very happy that many students and parents came to visit.  Through our events, we not only try to educate our youths about our culture, but we encourage them to eat healthy as well,” said Biswajit Roy, general secretary of the fair committee.

Jamiul Adnan, 22, a student of Dhaka University who visited the festival at Bangla Academy, said: “I went to the fair with some of my friends and teachers. I am from Dhaka and both my parents grew up here, so I do not get to taste or know about different types of delicious pithas. We found the fair quite exciting.”

Bangladesh Shishu Academy used to arrange pitha fairs for children, but it hasn’t done so in recent years. “For a couple of years now, we have not organised any pitha fairs. We are not sure if we are going to arrange one this year. The pitha fairs were fun, children and their parents loved to participate. I believe it’s our responsibility to teach our young generation about our traditions and pithas are part of our Bengali heritage,” said Razina Akhter, head of library at the Academy.

The communication department of Bangladesh Shilpakala Academy informed Y&I: “Every year, different organisations arrange pitha fairs on our premises. But this year, we are not sure when such fairs are going to take place. From January 12, we have a number of other programmes scheduled.”

Besides cultural centres and organisations, many educational institutions arrange their own pitha fairs. Salauddin Ahmed, a parent, said: “Both my children attend Hurdco International School. On January 18, there is going to be a pitha fair at their school. Parents have to contribute pithas for the fair, though they are not invited to attend. However, my wife and I are happy that our children are getting the opportunity to know about our traditional foods.”  

Meanwhile, it might be hard to find fresh date palm juice in Dhaka, but it is available on the outskirts of the capital. If one really wants to taste the cool, refreshing juice, then visiting nearby rural areas early in the morning is the best thing to do. A variety of vegetables, like baby potatoes, flat beans, winter greens, cauliflower, cabbage, carrots, tomatoes, gourds and sweet corn, are most delicious in winter. And succulent duck meat curry, with rice flour chapati (flatbread) is a delicacy that is a must in many households. Fruits like oranges and boroi (jujube) also grow abundantly in winter.

Tajbir Jahan Shawon, a private service holder, lives on the other side of Turag River. “We live in Dhaka, but our place is somewhat isolated from the mainland. As we are surrounded by the river, our only means of communication is by boat. In our area, you can find all types of fresh vegetables, date juice, and river fish. You can get fresh mustard oil and pure ghee (clarified butter) that are needed to prepare different winter delicacies. Many students from the city come to our area in search of such foods. I personally love to eat duck meat during winter. “

Saraf Anim, 22, a student of North South University, said: “I love winter for many reasons and food is one of them. We get to enjoy so many different types of fresh vegetables. I am a foodie and I love all sorts of winter foods. From vegetables, fish and duck to pickles and pitha, everything tastes more delicious. Many of us like to organise barbeque parties at home. Nowadays, the equipment required for barbequing can be found in most markets. We like to do prepare the items for barbecue ourselves. But there are some companies that sell ready-to-use marinated meats and spiced kebabs, the best thing about that is they are tasty and can be cooked easily.”   

Raju Ahmed, 26, a student of Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology, had a different view of eating winter delicacies from street vendors: “I used to get pitha and fried foods from the roadside stalls, but I don’t do that anymore. I saw some disturbing news on social media regarding how those are prepared. From then on, I try to avoid street foods, although most of my friends still eat out.”

Regarding quality control of foods sold on the streets, SM Amirul Islam, Director, Bangladesh Food Safety Authority (BFSA), told this correspondent: “At the moment, we are trying to create awareness among the business owners. We do not have that many staff, so we have appointed 19 city corporation sanitary inspectors as our food and beverage inspectors. Of course, they help us with our work after they have finished their main job. Their main task is to inform us about different food and beverage companies, as to whether or not they are following a hygienic method while producing food items.”

“Recently, we organised a meeting with the Department of Health and representatives from both Dhaka city corporations. One of the main issues discussed at the meeting was how to involve street food vendors with our work. We came up with the idea that if we can arrange mobile food courts, then they would be motivated and will give more importance to hygiene. But we cannot expect a transformation overnight. We are glad to be taking initiatives to resolve such matters, and that the authorities and the people are helping us. Other than that, during winter a lot of fresh fish and vegetables are sold in our markets. Right now, we can claim we have been able to reduce the use of formalin. There is zero formalin in fish and vegetables sold in the markets of Dhaka now. Of course, there can be one or two exceptions. We believe the farmers and businessmen involved in this trade have understood the harmful effects of formalin, and we have been successful in creating awareness among them,” the director added.

Photos: File. 

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Editor : M. Shamsur Rahman

Published by the Editor on behalf of Independent Publications Limited at Media Printers, 446/H, Tejgaon I/A, Dhaka-1215.
Editorial, News & Commercial Offices : Beximco Media Complex, 149-150 Tejgaon I/A, Dhaka-1208, Bangladesh. GPO Box No. 934, Dhaka-1000.

Editor : M. Shamsur Rahman
Published by the Editor on behalf of Independent Publications Limited at Media Printers, 446/H, Tejgaon I/A, Dhaka-1215.
Editorial, News & Commercial Offices : Beximco Media Complex, 149-150 Tejgaon I/A, Dhaka-1208, Bangladesh. GPO Box No. 934, Dhaka-1000.

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