M Mahmud Ali
Grouped temples constitute a very important part of Bengal temple architecture. Usually, they are temples of identical style and size that are grouped together and arranged in a particular geometrical pattern.
The most common form is ‘12 temples’ that are arranged in two separate blocks of six temples and placed along a straight line. There are a smaller number of grouped temples, 4 to 12 Shiva temples, in Bangladesh.
The most prominent examples of group temples are the four Shiva temples in a straight line pattern at Dhakeshwari in Dhaka, 11 Shiva temples (in a rectangular pattern) at Abhoynagar in Jessore, 12 Shivalaya temples (in a square pattern) in Joypurhat, and 12 Shiva temples (in two parallel straight line pattern) in Satkhira. There was another grouped 12 Shiva temples at Dhulgram in Jessore, but it has been washed away by the Bhairab River.
Dhakeshwari Temple is the national temple of Bangladesh. The temple complex is located at 10 Orphanage Road under Chawkbazar in Old Dhaka. The name Dhakeshwari means ‘Goddess of Dhaka’. It is believed that the temple was initially built by King Ballal Sen in the 12th Century during the Sena dynasty. Later, Subedar Maan Singh rebuilt the temple towards the end of the 16th century. The present architectural state and style of the temple cannot be dated exactly to any period of time because of the numerous repairs, renovations and rebuilding that have taken place over time.
The temple was severely damaged during the 1971 Liberation War, and over half of the temple’s buildings were destroyed. A massive renovation work was undertaken after 1971. The temple is an important part of Dhaka’s cultural heritage. Dhakeshwari Temple is deemed as the most important Hindu place of worship in Bangladesh, and it is a hub of socio-cultural as well as religious activity.
Inside the temple complex, there are four Shiva temples of the same size and shape at the northeastern corner of a large pond. The temples are grouped in a straight line from east to west. The idol of Durga there is called Dhakeshwari. Each year, the largest celebration of Durga Puja _ the most important Hindu festival in Bengal _ in Dhaka is held at the Dhakeshwari Temple. Tens of thousands of worshippers and visitors, including non-Hindus, stream through the temple premises to enjoy the puja festivities, including cultural functions and traditional fairs.
Dhakeshwari temple may be a crowded place, but at the same time it is an abode of peace. The low sound of ‘ulu dhoni’ (chant) and the ringing of temple bells create a peaceful environment during prayer times every day.
References: Bangladesher Mandir by Ratan Lal Chakrabarti (Bangla Academy); and Late Mediaeval Temples of Bengal: Origins and Classifications by David McCutchion (Asiatic Society, Calcutta, India).
Photos: Writer.