One day, we drove to Alexandria, the second largest city of Egypt, along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. The journey by road took about four hours and we stopped at a restaurant on the way for coffee and snacks. The city is blissful, bathed by the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean and the series of crescent shaped beaches are extremely inviting. It was very interesting to watch the changing landscape as we approached the green plantations leaving behind the arid desert.

We first visited the fascinating Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa, located in the Karmouz district. Descending three levels beneath the city, the catacombs also exhibit a very obvious fusion of Greek, Roman and Egyptian cultures. From the first century AD to the fourth century AD, the tombs where essentially used as a cemetery, and finally rediscovered in 1900. We entered the catacombs down a spiral stairway located in the centre of the complex. We strolled around freely only at the top two levels, since the bottom level is typically under water. The first level is occupied by a large funeral banquet hall, where family members and mourners would gather. Descending the stone stairway to the second level, one is greeted by an unusually eerie feeling, thanks to the many sculptures which still remain to this day.

Then we visited the Pillar of Pompey, a huge monolithic Roman pillar carved out of a single block of red Aswan granite. It is the only relic that remains of just one of many such columns lining the massive temple colonnade, marking the location of the Serpeum. Ironically, many historians point out that the pillar has in fact been incorrectly named as it was actually erected in 297 AD, during the reign of Emperor Diocletian. The Pillar of Pompey commemorated the victory of the Romans over a revolt that was taking place in Alexandria at the time.

It was Friday, so we offered Juma prayers at the historic Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi Mosque at the Anfoushi neighbourhood, near the Citadel of Qaitbay. The magnificent architectural mosque is dedicated to the 13th century Alexandrine Sufi saint.

One of the most popular tourist attractions in Alexandria is the Citadel of Qaitbay, a 15th century fortress built to protect the city from invading Crusaders. The Qaitbay Citadel is built on the exact spot where the famous lighthouse of Alexandria once stood. The Citadel was established by Sultan Al-Ashraf Sayf al-Din Qa’it Bay in 1544 as a fortress. In the evening, the place is a haven for the locals and tourists alike as they browse through souvenir shops and sip Arabian coffee while they enjoy the fresh breeze of the Mediterranean. Simply, blissful!

We were lodged near the Montazah Palace and Royal Gardens, which are beautifully maintained and feature two royal palaces in the 19th and 20th centuries. The older Salamlek Palace was built in 1892 by the last ruler of the Mohammad Ali Dynasty. Interestingly, the palace functioned purely as a hunting lodge. The Al-Haramlik Palace nearby was built in 1932 by King Farouk. The gardens with nearby beaches are very popular with tourists. In the evening, we walked through the beautifully manicured botanical gardens to watch an eye-catching sunset.

We did not fail to visit the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, also known as the New Library of Alexandria, located very close to where the original Royal Library of Alexandria once existed before being totally destroyed.  An architectural masterpiece, the new library is essentially home to several individual libraries, along with a conference centre and lecture rooms. In addition, it also houses four art galleries, 15 permanent exhibitions and a planetarium.

However, it was frustrating and disheartening to find the streets deserted in the evening with a few visitors around, even at high-end beach resorts and other places of interest. During my last visit a decade ago, I came across hundreds of people on the beaches and elsewhere. Due to the recent political turmoil, the tourists have virtually abandoned the country. The sliding law and order situation is a matter of serious concern. It will take some time before visitors start flocking to one of the top tourist destinations on the planet. n

Photos: Writer