St Thomas, US Virgin Islands
By Quamrul Haider
After sailing overnight from San Juan in Puerto Rico, our ship docked at the port of Charlotte Amalie, the main town of St Thomas in the United States Virgin Islands, early in the morning of April 13.
Called the Rock City for its hilly, craggy horizon, St Thomas is known for opulence. It is the playground of the rich and famous. The multi-million dollar luxury yachts moored in the harbour speak for their wealth. The not so rich native Virgin Islanders, mostly descendants of slaves brought from Africa, make their living off the tourist trade.
The island, albeit small, offers something for just about everyone - on land and on sea. Since we wanted to see as much of the island as possible in a day without getting our feet wet, we took a guided tour in an open-sided safari bus that made frequent stops at historic landmarks and vista points. Interestingly, although the islands are US territories, the islanders follow the British when it comes to driving, but with left-hand-drive automobiles.
St Thomas is one of the three major islands that make up the US Virgin Islands; the other two are St Croix and St John. The islands were acquired by the United States from Denmark in 1917.
Our first stop was at Beacon Point from where we had a spectacular birds eye view of Charlotte Amalie and its harbour. Next was Drakes Seat, one of the islands best viewpoints named after the British privateer, Sir Francis Drake, who used this spot to spy on enemy ships of the Spanish Fleet. From the observation deck, we had a breathtaking view of the turquoise waters of Magens Bay, hailed as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.
At 457 metres above sea level, Mountain Top, the highest point in St Thomas, offered us a panoramic view of the Atlantic and several islands of the US Virgin Islands. This vista point features a casual shopping area and a bar which is home of the world famous Banana Daiquiri.
Our next destination was St Peter Great House and Botanical Gardens, perched on a mountainside about 305 metres above sea level. Once the haunt of the well-heeled, the house features classic Caribbean architecture and vintage furnishings in a beautiful, tropical setting with stunning views of several islands and islets. After a complimentary cocktail and fruit punch, we wandered through a gallery displaying local art and then followed a nature trail that led us past more than 50 varieties of tropical plants and orchids.
Since we had plenty of time at hand before the ships departure for St Maarten, we stayed back in downtown Charlotte Amalie for a self-guided walking tour through the narrow streets and lanes of the historic capital city. Named in honour of the queen of King Christian V of Denmark, Charlotte Amalie, with its white houses and bright red roofs glistening in the sun, takes visitors back to the Danish era when the town was a bustling port of trade. Indeed, the towns architecture reflects the islands culturally diverse past. The buildings have Dutch doors, French iron grillwork and Spanish-style patios.
Main thoroughfares at Charlotte Amalie are lined on both sides with high-end storefronts selling duty-free jewellery and drinks. Cafes, restaurants, as well as perfume, fashion and souvenir retailers are interspersed down the side streets and cobblestoned alleys. There is also an open-air market selling local wares and crafts.
In the 1700s, pirates used St Thomas as a base to raid merchant ships, particularly the ones carrying gold and silver to Spain. Today, free of pirates and privateers, St Thomas is one of the most cosmopolitan islands in the Caribbean. Yet it retains the distinctive atmosphere of a secluded Caribbean paradise. n
The writer is Professor of Physics at
Fordham University, New York.
Photos: Mahjabeen Haider and the writer.
