Jamdani: An art of excellence
Currently, this
industry is facing several financial and socio-economic bottlenecks. This industry still exists in approximately 150 villages of Rupgonj, Sonargaon and Siddhrgonj under Dhaka district. The Jamdani industry is still practicing the traditional mechanism, there
are no technological advancement
Tithe Farhana
The Jamdani weaving tradition has long and glorious history. In the first half of the 19 century James Taylor described the figuered and flowered Jamdani . T.N Mukharji referred to this fabric as Jamdani Muslim. The word Jamdani is persian , from Jam meaning flower and Dani meaning a vase or a container . The earliest documents from Kautilyas Book of Economics mentintioned that the origin of Jamdani and its development was in Bengal and Pundra . The Book of Periplus of Ertitrean Sea and the accounts of Arab ,Chinese and Italian travelers and traders. from various historical accounts , folklore and slokas , it may be assumed that very fine fabrics were available in Bengalas far back as the first decade before the birth of Jesus Christ. Cotton Fabrics like dukul and muslin didnot develop in a day. Dekul textile appears to have evoloved into muslin. Arab Geographer Salaiman mentioned in his book Sril- Silat -Ul Tawrikh about the fine fabrics produced in a state called Rumy,which was the name of a territory of present Bangladesh.
World famous Traveller Ibn Batuta,Ralph Fitch and Historian Abul Fazl also highly appreciated the muslins and jamdani and the hand loom industry of Sonagaon. During the regins of Emperor Akber and Emperor Jahangir , the figured on flowered muslin came to be known as the Jamdani. Forbes Watson commented on his book Textile Manufactures and Costumes of the People of India that the figured muslins were always considered the most expensive production of the Dhaka looms for its elegant design. In the Mughal Period , Jamdani was used extensively in Angarakhans on attire for both women and mens. At the same time, the use of Jamdani fabric was seen in fashionable cities of Europe. Gradually , the Jamdani industry faced its decline period during the middle of 19 century.Use of machinary in the English textile industry and the subsequent import of lower quality , but cheaper yarn from Europe , started the decline . Most importantly , the fall of Maghal Imprealism in India , was greatest downfall for decline of this industry. According to JamesWise , Dhaka Muslin worth Rs 5 million was exported to England in 1787, JamesTaylor put the figure at 3 million. In 1807, the export camedown Re 850,000 and thr export completely stopped. In India, West Bengal and Uttar Pradesh are famous for makeing jamdani. Jamdani is mostly used by Cotton or silk thread.Loom , Scissors , Shuttles,Charka are used as tools.
Currently, this industry is facing several financial and socio-economic bottlenecks. This industry still exists in approximately 150 villages of Rupgonj ,Sonargaon and Siddhrgonj under Dhaka district. The Jamdani industry is still practicing the traditional mechanism , there are no technological advancement . Anwar , a senior weaver and owner of Anwar Jamdain House, Narayangonj said the weaving system of jamdani is still following the traditional pattern , while Indian Jamdani Industry is introduced with tehnology and moredn craftmanship. He further added Basically , a young weaver starts his professional background from tender age,I engaged myself when I was 10 years old. Though I took basic primary education, I enterted this profession due to my fathers premature demise.
Senior Weavers are work for a long hours, a senior weaver can work as long as 18/20 hours with break. Basically , the benerasi industry was family based business, but now the conditio have been changed due to economic and social factors. Malik ,a senior weaver shared this was our family business , Me and my 5 brother were engaged with this business, now I am conducting this business . Others are involved with cultivation and small business. Shohag , brother of Mannik said Sharp decline of this industry insisted us to give up this family business and diverted from traditional wayof life. I am engaged with Paltry and have small gracory shop , that provide me a strong economic dependency more than jamdani industry.
Anis , a 20 years old labour of a factory was working since his childhood,he said I engaged with this industry since my childhood , now I am going to a senior weaver , but I am confused about taking this profession .I will be got married very soon, but considering , How will I manage my household expendures with this law wage? Yes, it is true ... we do not get enough wage .Senior weavers earns about 3000 to 4000 BDT taka per month, while younger get much less about 2000 BDT taka.
Amjad Ali , is passing his mid 6os, while he recollects the glorious story of jamdani business . He said During the Pakistani Regime , the jamdani had a great appeal to South Asain Region and the European market. Paradoxically , after the independenc this industry was turned into a fosil..Though some patronizers were struggling to revive this art, the lack of proper cultural consciousness and monopoly of RMG paved the gate of fall of this industry.
Weavers have no professional recognization and social status, they are regarding as community of poor art and culture . But they have talents , skills and natural knowledge on design, art , clolor , dying and overall aesthetic values. Munir ,a young weaver said we are doing this business dint of our own artistic knowledge and skills , nevertheless we need knowledge on modern textile art , design , marketing , quality control and others.If , we get this , it will supprt us a lot to strengthen this industry.. Shakil another young weaver explained that marketing knowledge as well as knowledge on customers demand and contemporay situation are evry important for use. The weavers donot know the marketing channel , consumer likings and disliking , and contemporay demand of bazar , so the desgins are not developed. Industry insiders are considering the necessity of introduing marketing knowledge , consumder demand and other modern tehnology on this industry so that the industry will get its massive flow.
The mastercraftmens can create design by dint of innovative ideas and creatire faculties . A large numbers of weavers are still uneducated and far from formal educational oppourtunities, even they have no voctional training and practical knowledge on moren textile industry.
Nevertheless, the creative ideas of this weaver community are so elegant and excellent that many artistic and gorgeous designs are appearing and crafting an aesthetic art. There are no written dcuments for the innumerable motif used in Jamdani .However, the major problem is that the weavers do not get adequate wages for their labour.Though master and senior weavers get high wages , the conditions of junior weavers and labours are knows no bound. In this circumstance, young generation are not enthusist to start their professional life through this ancient art.
Otherwise , the weavers donot obtain enough support from govt and NGOs. The weavers are not capable to take SME loans as this industry is not regarded as SMEs category. Experts consider this industry can be regarded as SME since the constructions, production , labour cost and other features are similar to SME defination. Conversely, some organizations and enthusistics entrepreneurs have been taking reviving initiatives for protecting this industry. In a bid to avoid the middleman they established direct contact with weavers. A jamdani production center has been established near dhaka.
Ruby Ghuznavi, Munira Emdad and Tamara Abed are the masterminds for reviving this artistic industry. Ruby Ghuznavi runs Aranya - an exclusive outlet in Banani in Dhaka ,Munira Emdad has established Tangail Sharee Kutir at Baily Road Dhaka and Tamara Abeds Aarong has been promoting Jamdani by Showcasing the magnificance of the weave through its exhibition called the story of Pride. Aarong has provided a significant support to the hundreds of Jamdani weavers by working with and marketing their products through in Bangladesh.
Its now important to develop the designs and the quality of the fabrics , arrange high quality input at a reasonable at a reasonable pride, withdraw VAT on the imported raw materials , ensure fast and dynamic property of dying , arrange and provide pre-waving and post weaving services on yearns and cloth, impart vocational training to the weavers for their skill development ,participate in textile fairs and trade fairin home and abroad , develop instutional marketing system , preservation of jamdani fabrics , product promotion, ensure other facilties, so that this industry would be transformed into a profitable industry. and competed with RMG and textile industry. Similarly, the infra-structural development of Jamdani Pollis are necessary. The industry has been concentrated on the banks of the river Shitalakka , its essential to protect environmental factors also.
The writer is a development specialist
