From Germany to South Africa-Part 7
Tanzania, Malawi: Welcome to Africa!
By Rainer Ebert
We had just crossed the Kenyan-Tanzanian border at Namanga and were about to enter the town limits of Longido, when suddenly a car rolled onto the highway. The elderly driver saw us, probably panicked, and stopped his car, blocking the narrow highway in its entirety. I had no option but to slam on the brakes, but it was too late. We crashed into the cars side, were thrown over the car, and hit the asphalt. Both Khukie, my wife and pillion rider, and I passed out.
When we regained consciousness, less-than-helpful police officers were there, and a dozen of curious onlookers. Fortunately, two aid workers with a car came by, picked us up, and carried us to the nearest hospital, in Arusha. Khukie was dizzy and nauseous, and I was worried that she might have sustained a brain injury. As no X-ray equipment was available at the hospital , we had to find another one. It was dark already, but I got lucky and found a cab which took us to the Kilimanjaro Christian Medical Centre in Moshi, about 80 kilometres east of Arusha. The doctor there took an X-ray of Khukies head and announced that she had a brain bleed and needed surgery in Dar es Salaam.
Dar es Salaam, Tanzanias largest city, is about 600 km from Moshi, so I asked the doctor how we could get there quickly. There is a public bus that will leave for Dar tomorrow morning, she replied. Seeing the shock on my face, she added: Welcome to Africa!
At this point, I decided to call my German insurance company. Fast forward _ many hours later, in the early morning, an AMREF ambulance jet, arranged by the insurance company, picked us up, and flew us back to Nairobi, where an ambulance was already waiting for us at the airport. At the hospital _ MRI scans, X-rays, and a big relief! There was no brain bleeding. Khukie had been misdiagnosed in Tanzania. She did have a mild concussion though, and a few of her intervertebral discs were slightly deformed, resulting in a day at the hospital, and a week of physiotherapy.
While Khukie was recovering, I rented a truck and went to pick up my crashed motorcycle at the police station in Longido. I brought it back to Nairobi, and the mechanics at Jungle Junction miraculously made it work again. Once Khukie felt better, we went on safari, about which I wrote last time. And then we continued with our journey.
We rushed through Tanzania, this time without any incidents. We passed Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa and the tallest free-standing mountain in the world, spent nights in Arusha, Chalinze, and Iringa, rode through the Mikumi National Park, and entered Malawi on July 19.
We spent our first night in Malawi at the Safari Lodge in Karonga, on the western shore of Lake Malawi. We arrived late in the evening and the kitchen was already closed. Thankfully, Brenda, one of our wonderful hosts, found someone who was willing to prepare a modest dinner: French fries with Nali Sauce, Africas hottest peri-peri. The sauce is very popular in Malawi, and rightly so.
Early the next morning, we headed south. Upon entering Mzuzu, the capital of Malawis Northern Region, we were confronted with a large group of people protesting against the government. The main road was blocked and there was no getting through. A young student on a bicycle saw our predicament and asked us to follow him. He guided us through Mzuzu on small dirt roads, and thanks to him, we made it to Kasungu in the evening of the same day, and were able to cross the border into Zambia the next morning.
I wish we could have spent more time in Tanzania and particularly Malawi, which is known as the warm heart of Africa for its friendly and welcoming people and beautiful scenery.
To be continued.
The writer is a moral philosopher at Rice University in Texas, USA.
