From Germany to South Africa-Part 5
Ethiopia: Simien Mountains and the Blue Nile
By Rainer Ebert
The terrain of Sudan is generally flat, and the climate is dry and extremely hot. On the other hand, Ethiopia is mountainous, hence, sometimes referred to as the Roof of Africa, making it considerably cooler than other regions around the globe at a similar latitude. Around the border at Gallabat/Metema, that contrast is particularly stark, and experiencing it as we crossed the border was amazing. Within a short distance, the sparse desert landscape turned into a dense collection of abundantly green hills, valleys, and mountains, and the scorching heat gave way to a mild breeze.
We spent our first night in Ethiopia in Shehedi, a small town not far from the border, and then continued to Gondar the next morning, on June 9. Gondar is a city of more than two lakh people, located southwest of the Simien Mountains, which offer breathtaking views of one of the most spectacular landscapes of the world.
Modern-day Gondar contains the remains of the fortress-city of Fasil Ghebbi, which was the residence of the Ethiopian emperor Fasilides in the 17th century. The fortress-city is surrounded by a wall and contains buildings such as palaces, churches and monasteries. It is marked by Indo-European and Arab influences.
One of the major sources of pride for Ethiopians is their tradition of religious harmony. Christians, Muslims, Jews, and other religious groups have been living together in Ethiopia for a very long time, and relations between them have mostly been guided by tolerance, a value sadly lacking in many other places. The first Muslims came here to escape persecution in Makkah, following the advice of Prophet Mohammad (pbuh). The group of refugees included Uthman ibn Affan, who later became the third of the Rashidun caliphs.
From Gondar, we rode to Bahir Dar, and then on to Addis Ababa, the capital. On the way, we crossed the Blue Nile, which originates at Lake Tana in Ethiopia and is one of the two major tributaries of the Nile. Some 1,300 kilometres before, in Khartoum, the capital of Sudan, we had seen the Blue Nile merge with the White Nile.
Because of heavy rain, which easily compares to the monsoon rains in Bangladesh, we had to attempt the 550-km ride from Bahir Dar to Addis Ababa twice. We finally reached there on June 12, and settled at the Ras Hotel, a landmark of downtown Addis. Shortly after, one of my friends and I fell sick, and it took us several days to recover. To make up for some of the time lost, we then quickly proceeded to the Ethiopian-Kenyan border, via Hawassa and Yebelo.
The border town, Moyale, is split into two parts, with the larger part being on the Ethiopian side. The main purpose of the border checkpoints seemed to be to control the flow of vehicles and transported goods, as people on foot constantly crossed the border in both directions, without catching the interest of border police. On the Kenyan side of the border, quite an adventure was awaiting us. More about that next time.
To be continued.
The writer is a moral philosopher at Rice University in Texas, USA.
