Discovering Nawabganj

Part-3

Christianity was spread by missions in Bengal starting in the 17th Century. And Nawabganj is a major area influenced by Christianity. Christian communities  spread over mainly 18 villages of Nawabganj and Dohar and Sirazdikhan in Munshiganj are collectively called ‘Atherograam’ (18 Villages). Most of those villages are in Nawabganj, where there are also three missions, or parishes. Hashnabad, a village next to Bandura, is the centre of Atherograam and is famous for ‘Bandura Church’. So the church is not in Bandura. Then, why is it called so?
Actually there are two Banduras: Puratan (Old) Bandura and Notun (New) Bandura. The bridge at Bandura Bazar connects both. Buses from Dhaka go to Bandura Bazar, which is a very old business hub in Puratan Bandura. Bandura Holy Cross High School is here. This century-old  institute (estd 1912) has no old structure, but has a glorious history. In the near past, the school was national champion several times in basketball.
Hashnabad is a five-minute walk from Puratan Bandura.  It is the birthplace of Theotonius Amal Ganguly, the first Bengali bishop and later Archbishop of Dhaka (from 1967 till his death in 1977). Born in 1920, he was also the first Bengali Christian doctorate and principal of Notre Dame College.
The mission (parish) of Hashnabad is the oldest in Nawabganj. Here is the Bandura Church, which is also known as ‘Hasnabad Church’. Its actual name is ‘Our Lady of the Holy Rosary Church’  (Japamala Ranir Girja in Bangla). One of the oldest churches of Bangladesh, it was built in 1777 and went through extensive renovations in 1888. It still  bears Portuguese architectural legacy in Bengal.
Visitors will notice a ruined two-storied house, just on the corner of the Church grounds.  It is a unique sight as such type of Christian residence is rare in our country. Once inhabited by a Christian family, it is now a ‘ghost house’. The school opposite to this old building is St Euphrasie’s Girls High School (estd 1940).
Two other missions are Golla Parish and Tuital Parish.
Golla Parish was established in 1844 in Boro (larger) Golla village. This village is on the River Ichamoti just opposite  Mohabbatpur, my home village. The film ‘Ekattorer Jishu’ was filmed here. The church here is called St Francis Xavier’s Church. The old church is no more; the present beautiful structure was built much later. St Thecla’s Girls’ High School (estd 1925) of Golla is the oldest school for girls in Nawabganj.
St Anthony of Padua Church (estd 1860) in Bakshanagar is under Golla Parish. During the Liberation War, an American priest was martyred in Nawabganj. Father William P Evans was caught and killed by Pakistani soldiers near Nawabganj sadar as he was on his way to Bakshanagar from Golla by boat on November 23, 1971. He is buried in Golla.
Tuital Parish is in Nayansree union. Once, the river-way was the easiest, but now you have to go through Daudpur bazar. The Holy Spirit Church was established here in 1914. Sunabaju’s church, named Fatima Rani Church (estd 1924, but inscription says 1946)  is also under Tuital Parish. It is actually on the border of Jaykrisnapur and Sunabaju. The old structures of the churches no longer exist, but the new buildings are beautiful, too.
By crossing the bridge from Bandura Bazar, we can reach Notun Bandura. There is a very old mosque here, locally called Shahi Bhanga Mosque. It is also known as Gayebi Mosque. People say its ruined condition gave it the name ‘Bhanga’ (broken) Mosque. Some say the mosque appeared suddenly, before which there was no trace of it, thus the name ‘Gayebi’ (unseen) Mosque. As there is no inscription, we cannot be sure of its origin. Presently, extensive expansion and renovation has been done, but in a wrong way. As a result, the original architectural style cannot be traced. The western part with three domes is old. It may be from the late Mughal period. Similar thick walls, three front openings, mihrab (niche in the wall indicating qibla) were used in that period. The east wing and tall minar are recent additions.  
Next to Notun Bandura is a small village called Baroduari. There is an old pond there; locals claim  to have found old bricks from it. But I have not seen such bricks or any old ghat. Actually, the name ‘Baroduari’ is important. ‘Baroduari’ (12 gates) or ‘Bardarai’ was used in Mughal and Persian architecture.
Thus, Nawabganj has diversity in its architectural heritage, which needs more research. We will discover other heritage sites in the next part.

To be continued

The writer is a banker from Nawabganj. He is affiliated with Save the Heritages of Bangladesh as an admin.
Photos: Writer.

Discovering Nawabganj

Part-3 Christianity was spread by missions in Bengal starting in the 17th Century. And Nawabganj is a major area influenced by Christianity. Christian communities spread over mainly 18 villages of Nawabganj and Dohar and Sirazdikhan in Munshiganj are collectively called Atherograam (18 Villages). Most of those villages are in Nawabganj, where there are also three missions, or parishes. Hashnabad, a village next to Bandura, is the centre of Atherograam and is famous for Bandura Church. So the church is not in Bandura. Then, why is it called so? Actually there are two Banduras: Puratan (Old) Bandura and Notun (New) Bandura. The bridge at Bandura Bazar connects both. Buses from Dhaka go to Bandura Bazar, which is a very old business hub in Puratan Bandura. Bandura Holy Cross High School is here. This century-old institute (estd 1912) has no old structure, but has a glorious history. In the near past, the school was national champion several times in basketball. Hashnabad is a five-minute walk from Puratan Bandura. It is the birthplace of Theotonius Amal Ganguly, the first Bengali bishop and later Archbishop of Dhaka (from 1967 till his death in 1977). Born in 1920, he was also the first Bengali Christian doctorate and principal of Notre Dame College. The mission (parish) of Hashnabad is the oldest in Nawabganj. Here is the Bandura Church, which is also known as Hasnabad Church. Its actual name is Our Lady of the Holy Rosary Church (Japamala Ranir Girja in Bangla). One of the oldest churches of Bangladesh, it was built in 1777 and went through extensive renovations in 1888. It still bears Portuguese architectural legacy in Bengal. Visitors will notice a ruined two-storied house, just on the corner of the Church grounds. It is a unique sight as such type of Christian residence is rare in our country. Once inhabited by a Christian family, it is now a ghost house. The school opposite to this old building is St Euphrasies Girls High School (estd 1940). Two other missions are Golla Parish and Tuital Parish. Golla Parish was established in 1844 in Boro (larger) Golla village. This village is on the River Ichamoti just opposite Mohabbatpur, my home village. The film Ekattorer Jishu was filmed here. The church here is called St Francis Xaviers Church. The old church is no more; the present beautiful structure was built much later. St Theclas Girls High School (estd 1925) of Golla is the oldest school for girls in Nawabganj. St Anthony of Padua Church (estd 1860) in Bakshanagar is under Golla Parish. During the Liberation War, an American priest was martyred in Nawabganj. Father William P Evans was caught and killed by Pakistani soldiers near Nawabganj sadar as he was on his way to Bakshanagar from Golla by boat on November 23, 1971. He is buried in Golla. Tuital Parish is in Nayansree union. Once, the river-way was the easiest, but now you have to go through Daudpur bazar. The Holy Spirit Church was established here in 1914. Sunabajus church, named Fatima Rani Church (estd 1924, but inscription says 1946) is also under Tuital Parish. It is actually on the border of Jaykrisnapur and Sunabaju. The old structures of the churches no longer exist, but the new buildings are beautiful, too. By crossing the bridge from Bandura Bazar, we can reach Notun Bandura. There is a very old mosque here, locally called Shahi Bhanga Mosque. It is also known as Gayebi Mosque. People say its ruined condition gave it the name Bhanga (broken) Mosque. Some say the mosque appeared suddenly, before which there was no trace of it, thus the name Gayebi (unseen) Mosque. As there is no inscription, we cannot be sure of its origin. Presently, extensive expansion and renovation has been done, but in a wrong way. As a result, the original architectural style cannot be traced. The western part with three domes is old. It may be from the late Mughal period. Similar thick walls, three front openings, mihrab (niche in the wall indicating qibla) were used in that period. The east wing and tall minar are recent additions. Next to Notun Bandura is a small village called Baroduari. There is an old pond there; locals claim to have found old bricks from it. But I have not seen such bricks or any old ghat. Actually, the name Baroduari is important. Baroduari (12 gates) or Bardarai was used in Mughal and Persian architecture. Thus, Nawabganj has diversity in its architectural heritage, which needs more research. We will discover other heritage sites in the next part. To be continued The writer is a banker from Nawabganj. He is affiliated with Save the Heritages of Bangladesh as an admin. Photos: Writer.