Discovering Nawabganj

Part-1

There are at least four places in Bangladesh called Nawabganj/Nababganj.  Nawabganj upazila of Dhaka is the least known among those. This part of the district is not a very old settlement, but it has rich architectural treasures. Despite several sites, only Kolakopa and Bandura get attention. But there are a lot of other places there that bear testimony to a diversified architectural heritage.
We can trace a special character of architecture _ use of limited space_ in Nawabganj. Our journey starts with a nice example of that. Barrah Paschim Para Masjid is a single-domed small mosque. This beautiful structure was built by Wazed Ali Khan in 1925. He had a plan _ and bought bricks, too_ to build a residence in the colonial style, but his sudden death stopped the work. This colonial period mosque is a magnificent combination of Mughal and British architecture, a rare example in Bangladesh. The main chamber along with a single dome bears Mughal patterns, while the veranda with flat roof represents British style. Chini-tikri, a kind of mosaic work using broken pieces of Chinese porcelain, can be found on top of the dome. The structure with four corner minarets is in almost intact condition. An eastern extension with a temporary roof does not hamper its beauty. Presently, Mahmood Ali Khan, grandson of Wazed Ali Khan, takes care of the mosque and he is very much aware of its aesthetical as well as historical value. The name, Barrah, has a history. We will come to that in another story. Now, let’s follow our trip to Barrah with another colonial structure.
It is called Jamini Babu’s House. Local people say Jaminikanta Dey Sarkar was a zamindar. It is a simple, large house with a pond inside. The main building is decorated with late colonial period ornamentation. Wooden work of the front façade is well maintained and it is gorgeous. Presently, Jaybrata Sarkar, a descendant of the zamindar, lives there with his family.
Komorganj, named after a Mughal general, is a station with several old buildings from where we can go to Barrah. From here to Nawabganj sadar, the next stop should be Bardhanpara, birthplace of great Dr Rafiuddin Ahmed.  Though little known in Bangladesh, he was a pioneer in the field of dentistry in the Indian subcontinent. He established the first dental college in entire South Asia in Kolkata that is now named after him. He served as a minister in West Bengal and was honoured with Padma Bhushan award in 1964.
You can find three large late colonial residences here. Wahed Manzil (commonly known as Shaareng Bari) is the most fascinating and largest among those. Actually, it is a big compound on over 10 acres of land, with a mosque, family graveyard, ponds, drawing room and separate residential quarters. The work was started by Md Wahed Ali Mia and completed by his son, ABM Yunus Ali, after his death in 1938. The mosque was built in 1914 and the residential part in 1928-29. Extensive high-grade chini-tikri work, probably the best in Nawabganj, of several structures, including façade of the main building, gate, mosque, graves and kachari (office-cum-drawing room) was initiated by Yunus Ali in later years. Marvelous chini-tikri decorations still adorn the kachari, a single room structure, surrounded by a veranda with curved roof. Yunus Ali was known as Yanus Shaareng, though he was not a shaareng (sailor). Rather, he was the owner of several launches plying between Dhaka and Nawabganj. That waterway is almost dried out nowadays. Actually, his father, Wahed Ali, was a shaareng and for that reason, the house was called Shaareng Bari. Yunus Ali was long-time chairman of Baksnagar union and a very rich man. One of his sons, Md Shahzada, also became chairman for a single term. Shaareng Bari’s condition is poor. No maintenance work has been done for long. Moreover, additions to the main building in recent years have diminished its beauty. The whole compound is still owned by the original family.
From Bardhanpara we can move to Nawabganj sadar. A moth (memorial) can be seen on the way, just beside the road on the Ichamati River. This century-old relic is called Bagmara Moth. Our destination, Nawabganj Sadar, situated in Kashimpur mauza and Kolakopa union, is an interesting place. Actually, there is no mauza or village called Nawabganj in the whole upazila! During the Nawabi period, River Ichamati was used as a shortcut by the nawabs of Murshidabad to go to Dhaka. On the way, they would take rest in this place. On such occasions, a haat (market) would be set up and locals started to call the place Nawabganj. Not only that, some place names and structures in the upazila also bear the Mughal touch. But we do not see any Mughal structures in Nawabganj sadar, rather, there are British colonial structures, like the land office.
Interestingly, three schools in Nawabganj have crossed the century landmark. Nawabganj Pilot High School, established in 1905, is the oldest school of this area. The old building of the school has been demolished. Galimpur Rahmania High School (estd.1907) and Bandura Holy Cross High School (estd.1912) also do not have any distinctive buildings left.

To be continued.

The writer is a banker, affiliated with Save the Heritages of Bangladesh as an admin.
Special thanks to SM Mosharrof Hossain in Barrah.
Photos: Writer, Nafees Rahman.

Discovering Nawabganj

Part-1 There are at least four places in Bangladesh called Nawabganj/Nababganj. Nawabganj upazila of Dhaka is the least known among those. This part of the district is not a very old settlement, but it has rich architectural treasures. Despite several sites, only Kolakopa and Bandura get attention. But there are a lot of other places there that bear testimony to a diversified architectural heritage. We can trace a special character of architecture _ use of limited space_ in Nawabganj. Our journey starts with a nice example of that. Barrah Paschim Para Masjid is a single-domed small mosque. This beautiful structure was built by Wazed Ali Khan in 1925. He had a plan _ and bought bricks, too_ to build a residence in the colonial style, but his sudden death stopped the work. This colonial period mosque is a magnificent combination of Mughal and British architecture, a rare example in Bangladesh. The main chamber along with a single dome bears Mughal patterns, while the veranda with flat roof represents British style. Chini-tikri, a kind of mosaic work using broken pieces of Chinese porcelain, can be found on top of the dome. The structure with four corner minarets is in almost intact condition. An eastern extension with a temporary roof does not hamper its beauty. Presently, Mahmood Ali Khan, grandson of Wazed Ali Khan, takes care of the mosque and he is very much aware of its aesthetical as well as historical value. The name, Barrah, has a history. We will come to that in another story. Now, lets follow our trip to Barrah with another colonial structure. It is called Jamini Babus House. Local people say Jaminikanta Dey Sarkar was a zamindar. It is a simple, large house with a pond inside. The main building is decorated with late colonial period ornamentation. Wooden work of the front faade is well maintained and it is gorgeous. Presently, Jaybrata Sarkar, a descendant of the zamindar, lives there with his family. Komorganj, named after a Mughal general, is a station with several old buildings from where we can go to Barrah. From here to Nawabganj sadar, the next stop should be Bardhanpara, birthplace of great Dr Rafiuddin Ahmed. Though little known in Bangladesh, he was a pioneer in the field of dentistry in the Indian subcontinent. He established the first dental college in entire South Asia in Kolkata that is now named after him. He served as a minister in West Bengal and was honoured with Padma Bhushan award in 1964. You can find three large late colonial residences here. Wahed Manzil (commonly known as Shaareng Bari) is the most fascinating and largest among those. Actually, it is a big compound on over 10 acres of land, with a mosque, family graveyard, ponds, drawing room and separate residential quarters. The work was started by Md Wahed Ali Mia and completed by his son, ABM Yunus Ali, after his death in 1938. The mosque was built in 1914 and the residential part in 1928-29. Extensive high-grade chini-tikri work, probably the best in Nawabganj, of several structures, including faade of the main building, gate, mosque, graves and kachari (office-cum-drawing room) was initiated by Yunus Ali in later years. Marvelous chini-tikri decorations still adorn the kachari, a single room structure, surrounded by a veranda with curved roof. Yunus Ali was known as Yanus Shaareng, though he was not a shaareng (sailor). Rather, he was the owner of several launches plying between Dhaka and Nawabganj. That waterway is almost dried out nowadays. Actually, his father, Wahed Ali, was a shaareng and for that reason, the house was called Shaareng Bari. Yunus Ali was long-time chairman of Baksnagar union and a very rich man. One of his sons, Md Shahzada, also became chairman for a single term. Shaareng Baris condition is poor. No maintenance work has been done for long. Moreover, additions to the main building in recent years have diminished its beauty. The whole compound is still owned by the original family. From Bardhanpara we can move to Nawabganj sadar. A moth (memorial) can be seen on the way, just beside the road on the Ichamati River. This century-old relic is called Bagmara Moth. Our destination, Nawabganj Sadar, situated in Kashimpur mauza and Kolakopa union, is an interesting place. Actually, there is no mauza or village called Nawabganj in the whole upazila! During the Nawabi period, River Ichamati was used as a shortcut by the nawabs of Murshidabad to go to Dhaka. On the way, they would take rest in this place. On such occasions, a haat (market) would be set up and locals started to call the place Nawabganj. Not only that, some place names and structures in the upazila also bear the Mughal touch. But we do not see any Mughal structures in Nawabganj sadar, rather, there are British colonial structures, like the land office. Interestingly, three schools in Nawabganj have crossed the century landmark. Nawabganj Pilot High School, established in 1905, is the oldest school of this area. The old building of the school has been demolished. Galimpur Rahmania High School (estd.1907) and Bandura Holy Cross High School (estd.1912) also do not have any distinctive buildings left. To be continued. The writer is a banker, affiliated with Save the Heritages of Bangladesh as an admin. Special thanks to SM Mosharrof Hossain in Barrah. Photos: Writer, Nafees Rahman.