Revitalisation of tribute tea

When Li Xingchang inherited the Kunlu Mountain Ancient Tea Garden for his mother 20 years ago, he did not expect that it would become a national intangible cultural heritage site. Li Xingchang is in his late fifties, and he lives in Ning’er Township,Ning’er County. As the eighth generation inheritor of traditional Pu’er tea processing skills, he has a deep love for Pu’er tea.

Li Xingchang’s affection for Pu’er tea comes from his mother. In 1987, when his mother bought a 100-mu ancient tea garden on the Kunlu Mountain for 800 yuan, she seemed to have foreseen the value of these tea bushes, though had hardly ever left her home town. The weight and shape of the traditional round-shaped Pu’er tea products she used to describe are surprisingly the same as those of the “Pumpkin-shaped Tribute Tea” housed in the Imperial Palace.

Li Xingchang said, “Mother seriously told me that the tea on Kunlu Mountain was very famous. During the Ming(1368-1644) and Qing dynasties(1644-1911), when it was tea-picking season every spring, then government would have the tea garden guarded, and the tea leaves were made into imperial tribute tea.”

In 1729, according to “Pu’er Annals,” Pu’er tea was sent to the emperor and was designated as tribute tea for its unique taste and other characteristics. After that, a tribute tea division was set up in Pu’er and the tea became popular in the capital. Li Xingchang said that tribute Pu’er tea was mostly from the Kunlu Ancient Tea Garden more than 30 kilometres from Pu’er City. The tea processing method taught by his mother is precisely that used to produce tribute Pu’er tea. The “Pumpkin-shaped Tribute Tea” is a special pressed tea product unique to Pu’er.

The production and inheritance of tribute Pu’er tea is faced with difficulties, but Li Xingchang is unwilling to leave it “hidden on the mountain.” He combines traditional and modern production techniques and keeps telling people the history and stories of Pu’er tea, hoping that more and more people will understand Pu’er tea and the Kunlu Mountain Ancient Tea Garden at a cultural level.

On December 3, 2012, following the recognition of the Kunlu Mountain Ancient Tea Garden as a national intangible cultural heritage production protection demonstration base, the “Tribute Pu’er Tea Production Techniques Teaching Base” was established in Ning’er County Vocational High School. Li Xingchang says happily, “Up to now, I have trained more than 300 students. Most of them have started their own businesses. They manage tea gardens, run tea houses, spread tea culture or do other things related to tea.”

Lixing Chang said that he puts all his heart into the production of Pu’er tea and the management of the ancient tea gardens, and has not done anything big. However, he is not only passing on old Pu’er tea production techniques, but also spreading Pu’er tea culture. Currently, he is studying and analysing tea-making skills, tea utensils and the tea-enjoying environment. Tea has almost become an indispensable part of his life.

 “Mother said, ‘no matter how good the tea is, you have to drink it to know its taste’. To ‘drink’ tea is to ‘appreciate’ it. Only by ‘appreciating’ tea carefully will you understand its charm.” Li Xingchang always bears her mother’s words in his mind. He is introducing more people to the past glory and the fresh aroma of Pu’er tea on his tea production.

Revitalisation of tribute tea

When Li Xingchang inherited the Kunlu Mountain Ancient Tea Garden for his mother 20 years ago, he did not expect that it would become a national intangible cultural heritage site. Li Xingchang is in his late fifties, and he lives in Ninger Township,Ninger County. As the eighth generation inheritor of traditional Puer tea processing skills, he has a deep love for Puer tea. Li Xingchangs affection for Puer tea comes from his mother. In 1987, when his mother bought a 100-mu ancient tea garden on the Kunlu Mountain for 800 yuan, she seemed to have foreseen the value of these tea bushes, though had hardly ever left her home town. The weight and shape of the traditional round-shaped Puer tea products she used to describe are surprisingly the same as those of the Pumpkin-shaped Tribute Tea housed in the Imperial Palace. Li Xingchang said, Mother seriously told me that the tea on Kunlu Mountain was very famous. During the Ming(1368-1644) and Qing dynasties(1644-1911), when it was tea-picking season every spring, then government would have the tea garden guarded, and the tea leaves were made into imperial tribute tea. In 1729, according to Puer Annals, Puer tea was sent to the emperor and was designated as tribute tea for its unique taste and other characteristics. After that, a tribute tea division was set up in Puer and the tea became popular in the capital. Li Xingchang said that tribute Puer tea was mostly from the Kunlu Ancient Tea Garden more than 30 kilometres from Puer City. The tea processing method taught by his mother is precisely that used to produce tribute Puer tea. The Pumpkin-shaped Tribute Tea is a special pressed tea product unique to Puer. The production and inheritance of tribute Puer tea is faced with difficulties, but Li Xingchang is unwilling to leave it hidden on the mountain. He combines traditional and modern production techniques and keeps telling people the history and stories of Puer tea, hoping that more and more people will understand Puer tea and the Kunlu Mountain Ancient Tea Garden at a cultural level. On December 3, 2012, following the recognition of the Kunlu Mountain Ancient Tea Garden as a national intangible cultural heritage production protection demonstration base, the Tribute Puer Tea Production Techniques Teaching Base was established in Ninger County Vocational High School. Li Xingchang says happily, Up to now, I have trained more than 300 students. Most of them have started their own businesses. They manage tea gardens, run tea houses, spread tea culture or do other things related to tea. Lixing Chang said that he puts all his heart into the production of Puer tea and the management of the ancient tea gardens, and has not done anything big. However, he is not only passing on old Puer tea production techniques, but also spreading Puer tea culture. Currently, he is studying and analysing tea-making skills, tea utensils and the tea-enjoying environment. Tea has almost become an indispensable part of his life. Mother said, no matter how good the tea is, you have to drink it to know its taste. To drink tea is to appreciate it. Only by appreciating tea carefully will you understand its charm. Li Xingchang always bears her mothers words in his mind. He is introducing more people to the past glory and the fresh aroma of Puer tea on his tea production.