Betila-Nalora
A trip back in time
by Galib Rahman Khan
Manikganj has a magnificent architectural heritage. This neighbouring district of Dhaka has rich architectural sites from mainly British colonial era. Baliati and Teota are two most popular attractions as these places are well-known. But there are some other places in Manikganj which also have strong cultural and historical value. Promotion and protection from destruction of those lesser known sites are a must. To do so, Save the Heritages of Bangladesh explores such places to create awareness. On its 2nd heritage tour, the group covered little-known Betila-Nalora. Many of our members heard of Betila-Nalora for the first time when we planned the tour. If I have to give an introduction, I should say: Wonder is waiting of you.
Betila and Nalora are two villages of Betila Mitara union of Manikganj Sadar and very close to district headquarters. Jatindramohan Ray mentioned the name of Betila in his book Dhakar Itihas (1912), but gave no details. He had planned to publish four parts of the book on Dhakas history, but unfortunately, he could manage only parts 12. The 4th part was to cover zamindars (landlords) of greater Dhaka. Manikganj was a part of undivided Dhaka district at the time. And surely, he would have added some words on the aristocrats of Betila! Sadly, the remaining data collected by Ray was lost with his priceless dairy after his death. We wish he was successful in his plan. Very little information is available about the history of the place. A search on the internet showed there are two zamindar houses and 2-3 old buildings.
During our visit, we saw about a dozen British-era buildings, and two of those are incomparable. If you go through Mitara, the road ends in an old bridge over a canal. This is Nalora. The canal connects the rivers Dhaleshwari and Kaliganga. There is a narrow road along the left side of the canal. One can start the tour from the bridge or the road. If we take the road, then the first destination will be a para, a colonial-era residential area. People say it was developed by the rich employees of merchants. It is a dead-end goli, or lane, consisting of eight old residential buildings in a row _ two on the left and six on the right. Only the last one in the row of six houses is unoccupied. All the other buildings are in full use. There is a common space between the two houses on the left with a primary school, a temple and a small open space. All the buildings have a rowak _ a raised terrace in the front _ which is common in Nalora. Lakshmi Nibash is the exception. This three-storied house _ the only one in Betila-Nalora _ is perhaps the most beautiful building of this region.
The next stop is another goli that starts with Gyan Kutir (Knowledge Cottage). Entering this particular lane, we feel as we are back in the early 1900s. The sight of elderly people sitting and relaxing on the wide rowak of an old red-and-yellow house in a green environment is fascinating. The rowak was made in such a way that half of it is shaded by the roof. As per the white marble nameplate, Gyan Kutir was built in the Bangla year 1334 (88 years ago) and we can assume it was a teachers residence from the name.
A quite large two-storied Victorian building is its neighbour. Estimating the total area of the compound is difficult as it has no boundary wall. It is also challenging to capture the whole structure in one frame for the dense wood of high-rise trees in front of the house! It is known as Satya Babu Zamindar Bari. The owners full name was Satyendra Nath Chowdhury. Actually, neither he nor his father was a landlord. They were salt merchants. Our general tendency is that we call any large old house a zamindar bari (landlords house) without any reference. The main building was built by Satyendras father, Bishwanath Chowdhury. A famous singer, who is also a politician, is the present owner of this house, we were informed.
A small pond and a temple can be seen in front of the wood. One source has claimed that the temple was actually a dance hall. But this type of structure, with three large openings, was generally used as a temple in Bengal. Moreover, the mot (mausoleum) of Satya Chowdhury is just beside the structure. No one constructs a mausoleum next to a dance hall. A new bamboo shade added on the pond is a good place for taking rest.
To cover the whole lane, we have to go further till the end. There is a large pond with a huge ghat (flight of steps). But the pond is not our goal, rather, its the small gate on the left side. You need to get permission before entering.
The gate is the entrance to a fantastic architectural wonder. A wall and other structures hide a small white building, which is unique. None of us had before seen this type of building with such an ornate faade before. There is no meaning to visiting Betila or Nalora without seeing this. The interior has totally been changed, but the exterior remains intact. This specific structure is part of a large complex, originally owned by one Ramesh Sen. Its present owner is Salamat Chowdhury.
After visiting this jewel, we must go back to the bridge, which is also an antique piece. Erosion of the canal has eaten away the approach roads to the bridge. On the other side of the canal is situated what is popularly called Betila Zamindar Bari. One has to take the road on the left after crossing the bridge. On the other hand, if you go through Betila crossing at the start of the tour, then this large house will be the first destination. The compound is huge _ with two massive buildings side by side of similar architectural pattern. For which, these are also called Naloras Twin Buildings. The condition of the buildings is poor. There are two ponds, one in the back and one on the left side. Commonly known as Jatu Babus House, this was also a merchants residence, not a landlords house. Babu was most probably a jute merchant _ nothing more could be known. The whole property is now under government supervision. The larger building is used as Deputy Directors Office, Government Shelter Centre. It seemed ironic to me that a structurally weak building is being used as a shelter centre! Another irony is the use of the smaller building: Manikganj Senior Citizens Service Centre. Providing services to the old in an old building! I had a nagging question: How can old people manage to use that staircase? There is no lift or escalator. Alas! There was no one there to answer me.
Interested persons can also visit Goshai Bari of Betila. People here claim a history of 500- years. What we have described so far, you should check them out yourself. Make your time and go to the place. You will enjoy it.
Route: Betila crossing from Manikganj town or Mitara crossing of Dhaka-Singair-Manikganj road, then Nalora from Mitara.
The writer is a banker and affiliated with Save the Heritages of Bangladesh as an admin.
Photos: Galib Rahman Khan
