Tale Of Two African Cities - Part 2
By Dr Shamim Ahmed
Our next destination was Cape Town, the legislative capital of South Africa. Sandwiched between the Cape Bay and its best known landmark, the Table Mountain, the city is a popular tourist destination. It is famous for its harbour, mesmerising beaches and landmarks such as Cape Point.
We were lodged behind the iconic Table Mountain, with its flat-topped summit and Devils Peak and Lions Head on either side. The Victoria and Alfred (VA) Waterfront shopping plaza at the harbour was our favourite destination in the evening. With several hundred trendy shops and cafes, it is arguably one of the citys most popular shopping and entertainment venues. We dined on grilled calamari and king lobster with smashed potatoes under the open sky as we spent a wonderful evening at the plaza.
One fine morning, we cruised to Robben Island, some 12 km off the coast of Cape Town. We availed the 45-minute conducted bus tour of the island, which a visit to the maximum security prison, where Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years of incarceration as a political prisoner. We were greatly moved by the inhuman experience shared by one of the prisoners during our trip. On the way to the island, we stopped at the seal island for sometime where hundreds of seals were found sunbathing to our delight.
Cape Town is one of the most multicultural cities in the world, reflecting its role as a major destination for immigrants and expatriates to South Africa. There is a sizeable population of Indian descendants who have lived there for three centuries. They play significant roles in socio-economic activities of the country. Muslims constitute about 8 percent of the population and there are several mosques in the city.
One day, we drove along the scenic Atlantic coast for about four hours to reach the Cape of Good Hope, the southwestern tip of the African continent. On the way, we came across several ostrich farms. The entire Cape Peninsula is a rugged, scenic and generally unspoiled natural park. Its beauty is all the more stunning because of blooming proteas, the national flower of South Africa. Another hours drive and we reached Cape Point _ the southernmost point of Africa. The mountain peak, with its famous lighthouse, offered a panoramic view of both Indian and Atlantic oceans. Just breathtaking!
Cape Town is blessed with several beautiful beaches. Among a string of beaches along a scenic stretch of the Atlantic coastline, palm-fringed Camps Bay is set against the backdrop of 12 great buttresses of Table Mountain, better known as the Twelve Apostles. We spent an entire morning along the coast. Actually, there is a series of four beaches separated by a stretch of granite boulders, and Camps Bay and Clifton beaches are certainly the trendiest where the manicured shoreline is overlooked by millionaires mansions.
One day, we visited Bo-Kaap, also known as the Malay Quarter. It is a historical centre and a colourful neighbourhood of Malay culture in Cape Town. Its brightly painted, uniquely-styled houses, some dating back to the 18th century, and cobblestone streets are a favourite tourist destination. This is one of the prettiest streets I have come across. Bo-Kaap is a multicultural area, home to mosques and shrines. The Bo-Kaap Museum showcases the lives of early Muslim settlers in the area and highlights the cultural contributions made by them. We offered prayers at the Nurul Islam Mosque, established in 1844, the oldest mosque in the city. We also relished Malay-style chicken curry and fried rice at lunch at Bismillah Restaurant.
During our trip, we also visited the Slave Lodge of the Dutch East India Company. Built in 1679, it is believed that several thousand slaves, convicts and mentally challenged people lived in the building for almost three centuries. The lodge provides details of the slave period. We were entertained by an open-air cultural function featuring tribal songs and dances. We also found time to visit the National Museum as well as the National Art Gallery located nearby.
We spent one evening on an hour-long sea cruise along the scenic Atlantic coast off Cape Town. Simply mind blowing! Before retiring, we settled for a sumptuous dinner, with array of sea food and vegetables, at the harbour front, overlooking the spectacular Bay.
It was my second visit to Cape Town in five years and I did not see any improvement in the security situation. The city gets deserted after sunset. The deteriorating law and order is annoying and alarming to say the least. We were requested to stay indoors and not to carry valuables. The only vibrant place after dark is the VA Waterfront with its cafes and restaurants. However, snatching of valuables and theft are common even in such upscale areas.
Despite the odds, the fond memories of safari at the National Park, the amazing Snake Park and dinner at the Carnivore Restaurant in Nairobi, and the trip to Cape Point, Robben Island, colourful Bo-Kaap and of course, the sea cruise and dinner at the VA Waterfront in Cape Town shall remain enshrined in my memory for many years to come.
Photos: Writer.
