Travel Adventures in the Balkans and Tibet

Reviewed by Raana Haider

Fast-forwarding light years ahead to 2011, in the sub-section of the book titled ‘Lhasa Chronicles,’ Akhter Matin Chaudhury takes us on an incredible train journey from Beijing to Lhasa – the culmination of a life-long dream. 
The Qinghai-Tibet rail journey covers 4,000 kilometres. Many of us dream; yet how many of us realise our dream? This inveterate Bangladeshi traveller did. 
In a graphic account replete with the ‘do’s and don’ts’ of advice, he boards the ‘Iron Horse’ train “in the company of five complete strangers who will have to put up with me for the next 44 hours.” Importantly, “I am advised by my fellow travellers not to take a shower while in Lhasa. Huh? Apparently one can catch one’s death of cold here. So…no shower on the train (two days), no shower in Lhasa (another three days) – five days without a shower. Hardly bears thinking.” Very importantly, “all the water used to flush the toilets in the train is actually heated! Otherwise the water would just freeze as the train passes through climes where the temperature can be as low as -30C!!” 
Other record-breaking facts keep one enthralled. “In 2007 the Chinese did what everybody thought was impossible. They connected Lhasa to the national rail network by building a rail line from Golmud in north central China to Lhasa, a distance of more than 1,000 kms. ..Ger-Mu is the highest point on the railroad, at more than 5,000 metres. Above sea level…There is no railroad in the world at a higher altitude…During the night oxygen was pumped into the carriages. This happens automatically when the train reaches a certain altitude…We soon pass what seems to be frozen tundra – and its only August!...We are crossing over the Dangla mountains. Apparently this place never unfreezes…The sheer desolation is striking…and are approaching Tsona Lake, one of 1,500 lakes in Tibet. It is 4,583 metres above sea level and covers more than 400 square kilometres…” 
And as the train approaches Lhasa, Chaudhury exults: “I approach Lhasa with all the expectations of a groom who has never seen his bride-to-be, of a first time expectant father…I know I will not be disappointed.”
Who would not be moved by his closing remarks in ‘Reflections: The body leaves but the spirit remains’? He writes: “The memories of Tibet and Lhasa will be a part of my consciousness for the rest of my life. Of that I am sure. I am not a spiritual person…It was an emotional experience – from start to finish. Seeking Tibet was inspiring, finding it was exciting and experiencing it was exhilarating.” 
As he takes us by the hand in an extraordinary narrative, we are left with the sentiment – ‘Lhasa Chronicles’ is just as much about the journey as the destination. The book was published by Academic Press and Publishers Library, Dhaka in 2013. 

The reviewer is the author of ‘China: Contrasting Contours’ and ‘India: Beyond the Taj and the Raj’, published by University Press Limited (UPL) Dhaka. 

Photos: Internet

 

Travel Adventures in the Balkans and Tibet

Reviewed by Raana Haider Fast-forwarding light years ahead to 2011, in the sub-section of the book titled Lhasa Chronicles, Akhter Matin Chaudhury takes us on an incredible train journey from Beijing to Lhasa the culmination of a life-long dream. The Qinghai-Tibet rail journey covers 4,000 kilometres. Many of us dream; yet how many of us realise our dream? This inveterate Bangladeshi traveller did. In a graphic account replete with the dos and donts of advice, he boards the Iron Horse train in the company of five complete strangers who will have to put up with me for the next 44 hours. Importantly, I am advised by my fellow travellers not to take a shower while in Lhasa. Huh? Apparently one can catch ones death of cold here. Sono shower on the train (two days), no shower in Lhasa (another three days) five days without a shower. Hardly bears thinking. Very importantly, all the water used to flush the toilets in the train is actually heated! Otherwise the water would just freeze as the train passes through climes where the temperature can be as low as -30C!! Other record-breaking facts keep one enthralled. In 2007 the Chinese did what everybody thought was impossible. They connected Lhasa to the national rail network by building a rail line from Golmud in north central China to Lhasa, a distance of more than 1,000 kms. ..Ger-Mu is the highest point on the railroad, at more than 5,000 metres. Above sea levelThere is no railroad in the world at a higher altitudeDuring the night oxygen was pumped into the carriages. This happens automatically when the train reaches a certain altitudeWe soon pass what seems to be frozen tundra and its only August!...We are crossing over the Dangla mountains. Apparently this place never unfreezesThe sheer desolation is strikingand are approaching Tsona Lake, one of 1,500 lakes in Tibet. It is 4,583 metres above sea level and covers more than 400 square kilometres And as the train approaches Lhasa, Chaudhury exults: I approach Lhasa with all the expectations of a groom who has never seen his bride-to-be, of a first time expectant fatherI know I will not be disappointed. Who would not be moved by his closing remarks in Reflections: The body leaves but the spirit remains? He writes: The memories of Tibet and Lhasa will be a part of my consciousness for the rest of my life. Of that I am sure. I am not a spiritual personIt was an emotional experience from start to finish. Seeking Tibet was inspiring, finding it was exciting and experiencing it was exhilarating. As he takes us by the hand in an extraordinary narrative, we are left with the sentiment Lhasa Chronicles is just as much about the journey as the destination. The book was published by Academic Press and Publishers Library, Dhaka in 2013. The reviewer is the author of China: Contrasting Contours and India: Beyond the Taj and the Raj, published by University Press Limited (UPL) Dhaka. Photos: Internet